Hama Sushi, Tokyo

Hama Sushi is an accessible sushi restaurant where Shinjuku's high-volume dining culture, made-to-order conveyor service, regional soy sauces and one of Japan's fastest-growing sushi companies converge in the city's busiest commercial quarter.

Set amid the dense restaurant streets surrounding Shinjuku Station and just steps from Shinjuku Central Park, the restaurant turns sushi into a quick sequence of individually selected plates delivered directly from the kitchen. Tuna, yellowtail, sea bream and salmon share the table with seared preparations and seasonal fish, giving inexpensive sushi enough variation to sustain a full meal. Several soy sauces let diners alter salinity, sweetness and depth from piece to piece, extending choice beyond the fish itself. The result is a Shinjuku sushi restaurant where a company built around scale and technological experimentation keeps the essential pleasure of choosing one piece after another intact.

Hama Sushi is best known for growing from a single restaurant opened in Ashikaga, Tochigi Prefecture, on November 6, 2002 into one of Japan's largest sushi companies. The first location predated touch-panel ordering, so diners spoke into microphones installed at their seats and kitchen staff sent requested plates along the rotating belt. Expansion accelerated dramatically between 2010 and 2015, when 60 restaurants opened annually and the network increased from 100 to 432 locations. Hama Sushi introduced five soy sauces in 2013, entered its first overseas market with a Shanghai restaurant in 2014 and reached all 47 Japanese prefectures on April 25, 2016. The same year brought straight conveyor lanes carrying only ordered dishes, replacing the continuous circulation of sushi with a system centered on kitchen-to-table delivery. Domestic operations passed 500 restaurants in December 2018, and a June 2021 rebranding added the English Hama Sushi name to the logo as the company accelerated international expansion. By fiscal 2024, the chain had reached 600 restaurants and annual sales exceeding Β₯200 billion, giving the Shinjuku operation a place within a sushi business transformed from one Tochigi experiment into a major international chain.

Tuna provides the clearest starting point, pairing cool, yielding fish with rice made entirely from Japanese-grown grain and seasoned with a three-vinegar blend that includes rice vinegar and aged sake-lees vinegar. Sea bream changes the texture through firmer flesh; Hama Sushi uses ikejime fish, removes the nerve after dispatch and briefly blanches each day's portion in the restaurant to preserve the richness of the fat. Yellowtail receives another form of on-site handling, with the skin removed and each fillet cut daily so the dense flesh retains its freshness and bite. Soy sauce then becomes an active part of the progression, allowing the same fish to move toward lighter salinity or deeper sweetness. Hama Sushi keeps inexpensive sushi engaging through these small choices in fish, rice, preparation and seasoning, making successive plates distinct without complicating the fundamental simplicity of nigiri.

Hama Sushi works as the meal anchor for an afternoon tracing western Shinjuku through postwar skyscraper architecture, photography and the transformation of the former Yodobashi waterworks into Tokyo's first major high-rise business district.

Begin at Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, completed in 1991 to Kenzo Tange's design after Tokyo moved its administrative center from Marunouchi, with twin towers rising 243 meters above a vast granite-clad complex conceived for the emerging Shinjuku skyline. Continue to Tokyo Photographic Art Museum, whose collection began taking shape in 1988 before the institution opened in 1995 as one of Japan's first museums devoted comprehensively to photography and moving images. Conclude at Shinjuku Sumitomo Building, completed in 1974 as Japan's first skyscraper to exceed 200 meters, its triangular plan and central atrium marking a decisive stage in the redevelopment of the former Yodobashi waterworks. The progression moves from the engineering breakthrough of Shinjuku's first 200-meter tower through the institutional rise of photographic culture into Tange's grand metropolitan complex, revealing how radically western Shinjuku changed within a single generation.

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