Gallura, Milan

Gallura is an enduring Sardinian seafood restaurant where De Angeli's established residential quarter meets Antonio Zucca and Priamo Pianu's island roots, nearly four decades of continuity and a kitchen devoted to Sardinian fish, shellfish and regional specialties.

Set along Via Vittoria Colonna near Via Ravizza and just steps from Piazza De Angeli, the restaurant occupies a western Milan pocket where early-twentieth-century apartment blocks and villas mark the transition from the historic city toward the residential districts developed beyond its former walls. A classically composed dining room uses deep marine tones, white tablecloths and warm lighting to establish a polished backdrop without competing with the seafood arriving from the kitchen. The raw bar forms a visible culinary focal point, placing fish and shellfish preparation directly before diners and giving the opening stages of a meal their own physical theater. A compact seasonal outdoor area extends service toward the street, creating a lighter counterpart to the formal interior during warmer months. The result is a De Angeli restaurant whose composed surroundings place Sardinian seafood craftsmanship at the center of the experience.

Gallura is best known for Antonio Zucca and Priamo Pianu's sustained effort to establish Sardinian seafood cooking in Milan through a restaurant operating since 1988. Zucca came from Nureci in the province of Oristano and Pianu from Pabillonis in southern Sardinia, giving the project direct roots in two different parts of the island; Antonio eventually took command of the kitchen, with Priamo developing the entrepreneurial side of the business. Their original restaurant matured into a reference point for regional fish cooking through decades in the same Via Vittoria Colonna location, long before Sardinian restaurants became numerous across Milan. The partners later expanded their ambitions with Essenza on Via Marghera, created with two additional partners and chef Eugenio Boer after Federico Cicogna introduced Boer to the ownership group. Boer's tenure culminated in a MICHELIN star announced for the 2018 guide, then ended shortly afterward amid disagreement over the restaurant's increasingly creative culinary direction. Priamo Pianu recast the property as Spazio Gallura and brought Matteo Torretta into the kitchen, connecting the newer venture more explicitly with the seafood tradition of the original restaurant; Federico Comi subsequently took command after experience as Torretta's sous-chef at Savini. Gallura itself remained the stable center of the enterprise throughout those experiments, preserving the Sardinian seafood focus that Zucca and Pianu established in 1988.

Bottarga di Cabras introduces the island immediately through cured grey-mullet roe accompanied by celery and tomato, giving salinity and concentrated marine depth to the opening courses. Raw preparations move through Mediterranean scampi, red prawns, tuna, swordfish, sea bass and oysters, placing temperature and texture ahead of elaborate intervention. Fregola carries the cooking into one of Sardinia's characteristic pastas, paired with seafood or lobster so the toasted semolina absorbs the shellfish cooking juices. Larger fish arrive baked under salt or cooked with Vernaccia, olives, datterino tomatoes, basil, potatoes and artichokes, allowing whole-fish cookery to occupy the center of the meal. Lobster alla catalana combines shellfish with tomato and onion, and grilled scampi shift the emphasis toward direct heat and concentrated sweetness. Sardinian pecorino and mirto complete the sequence on land, closing a seafood-led meal through two products inseparable from the island's pastoral and drinking traditions.

Gallura works as the dining endpoint for an afternoon around De Angeli and Buonarroti that moves through Giuseppe Verdi's philanthropic final project, Milanese Liberty architecture and a century-old theater created as the western city expanded.

Begin at Casa Verdi, conceived by Giuseppe Verdi to support musicians who had reached old age without financial security and designed by Camillo Boito after the composer met the architect in Milan in 1895. The Noseda brothers received the construction contract that April, Verdi established the foundation in 1899 and deliberately required the residence to admit its first musicians only after his death; Verdi and Giuseppina Strepponi were transferred to its crypt in February 1901 before the first residents arrived the following year. Continue to Villa Romeo Faccanoni, constructed between 1912 and 1914 for engineer Luigi Faccanoni by Giuseppe Sommaruga, with Eugenio Quarti responsible for interior decoration and Alessandro Mazzucotelli contributing wrought iron. Automobile industrialist Nicola Romeo acquired the villa in 1919, and Gio Ponti's studio later transformed and enlarged the property for medical use; its garden faΓ§ade preserves Ernesto Bazzaro's two female sculptures removed from Sommaruga's Palazzo Castiglioni after their nudity caused controversy. Conclude at Teatro Nazionale, commissioned by cinema entrepreneur Mauro Rota from architect Mario Borgato and inaugurated on December 20, 1924 with Sem Benelli's La cena delle beffe. The theater experimented early with reinforced concrete, later alternated stage performance with cinema and hosted figures spanning Walter Chiari, Giorgio Gaber and Rudolf Nureyev; Primo Carnera even boxed there in 1945, giving the building a century of unusually varied public performance. The progression moves from Verdi and Boito's purpose-built home for aging musicians through Sommaruga's Liberty villa and its later conversion by Gio Ponti into Borgato and Rota's theater, tracing the philanthropic, architectural and performance institutions that accompanied western Milan's twentieth-century growth.

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