Gelateria Giova, Milan

Gelateria Giova is an understated artisanal gelateria where Risorgimento's residential elegance meets Giovanni Lettieri's career change, traditional Italian gelato technique and a rotating repertoire that has made his tiny independent shop a neighborhood fixture since 2013.

Set along Corso Indipendenza near Via Castel Morrone and just steps from Piazza Risorgimento, the gelateria occupies an eastern Milan pocket distinguished by tree-lined avenues and the Liberty residences spreading outward from Porta Venezia. The compact shop keeps the visual focus on a relatively concise counter, with the gelato itself supplying most of the color and movement inside the room. Benches provide a handful of places to linger, preserving the proportions of the small neighborhood bottega that established Giova's reputation during its first years. The shop later expanded beyond its original dimensions without abandoning the close relationship between production, counter and customer that characterized the first incarnation. The result is a Risorgimento gelateria whose modest physical footprint concentrates attention on Giovanni Lettieri's craft and the daily rotation inside the counter.

Gelateria Giova is best known for Giovanni Lettieri's decision to change careers, apprentice with Pallini in Seregno and establish an independent gelato project whose name comes directly from his own diminutive, Giova. Lettieri approached the new profession through apprenticeship, learning Pallini's production method before translating that training into a small shop on Corso Indipendenza. The gelateria opened in 2013, and by the following year it had entered Scatti di Gusto's selection of Milan's leading artisanal gelato shops, an unusually quick ascent for an operation barely twelve months old. Its early reputation formed around a deliberately narrow counter, with pear, chocolate and Bronte pistachio established as recurring signatures alongside less conventional combinations. The original premises were exceptionally small, then expanded after the business developed a substantial local following, adding room without turning the operation into a multi-location format. Corriere della Sera critic Valerio M. Visintin later singled out Lettieri himself as the force behind the shop and highlighted the consistently high standard of his production, particularly Bronte pistachio, hazelnut, ricotta with chocolate chips, cream with walnuts and honey, chocolate with orange and Amalfi-lemon cream. More than a decade after its opening, Lettieri remains attached to the same Corso Indipendenza operation, giving Giova a continuity centered on one artisan, one shop and the method he learned before entering the Milan gelato scene.

Bronte pistachio provides one of the counter's enduring reference points, concentrating roasted nut flavor into a dense cream that has remained among Giova's recurring signatures since its early years. Ricotta with chocolate chips moves toward a softer dairy base punctuated by dark fragments, then cream with walnuts and honey layers sweetness against the tannic edge and crunch of the nuts. Chocolate takes several forms, including an extra-dark version and another incorporating pieces of orange, using citrus bitterness to sharpen the cacao. Lemon appears through an Amalfi-inflected cream, and chestnut has entered the rotation as a compact seasonal preparation built around the ingredient's earthy sweetness. Fruit introduces another changing register through pear, figs, wild strawberries, raspberry and other seasonal appearances, keeping part of the counter responsive to the calendar. The rotation between established creams, fruit and Lettieri's less conventional combinations gives Giova its strongest culinary characteristic: familiarity comes first, then a single ingredient or pairing shifts the expected flavor without overwhelming the gelato beneath it.

Gelateria Giova works as the sweet endpoint for an afternoon exploring the residential architecture east of Milan's historic core through three commissions that chart the city's transition from floral Liberty toward the heavier eclectic experimentation of the years preceding the First World War.

Begin at Casa Campanini, the residence architect Alfredo Campanini designed for himself between 1904 and 1906 as one of his most complete experiments in Milanese Liberty. Campanini controlled the architecture and decorative conception down to the polychrome glass and floral ironwork, commissioning Michele Vedani for the cement figures flanking the entrance and Alessandro Mazzucotelli for wrought-iron elements including the entrance gate; surviving furnishings, frescoes and the period lift preserve the breadth of his original domestic project. Continue to Palazzo Berri Meregalli, constructed between 1911 and 1913 from Giulio Ulisse Arata's design as Milanese architecture moved beyond pure floral Liberty into a denser combination of Romanesque stonework, exposed brick, Gothic references and Renaissance forms. Alessandro Mazzucotelli supplied wrought iron, Angiolo D'Andrea contributed mosaics and ceiling decoration, and Adolfo Wildt's 1919 marble La Vittoria brought one of the sculptor's major Symbolist works into the entrance hall. Conclude at Palazzo del Ghiaccio, inaugurated in December 1923 after industrialist Marco Innocente Mangili commissioned a vast covered skating facility beside his refrigerated-warehouse operation. Count Alberto Bonacossa, an Italian skating champion and International Olympic Committee member, promoted the concept, linking Milan's emerging ice-sports culture with Mangili's industrial refrigeration expertise and creating a building that soon became central to the city's early ice hockey history. The progression moves from Campanini's comprehensive Liberty residence through Arata's fusion of historic styles and modern decorative arts into Mangili and Bonacossa's union of refrigeration technology with mass sport, tracing two decades of Milanese experimentation across architecture, craftsmanship and urban leisure.

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