Gong Oriental Attitude, Milan

Gong Oriental Attitude is a polished Chinese fine-dining restaurant where Risorgimento's architecture-rich residential quarter meets grand onyx installations, Japanese-inflected precision and a dining room conceived as an immersive setting for contemporary Asian cuisine.

Set along Corso Concordia near Piazza Tricolore and just steps from the tree-lined streets extending toward Monforte, the restaurant occupies a Central Milan pocket distinguished by Liberty residences, early-modernist experimentation and secluded private gardens. Architects Nisi Magnoni and Davide Galletta developed the interior through open volumes, exceptionally high ceilings, neogothic references and Balinese furnishings, punctuating the room with immense illuminated onyx gongs that supplied the restaurant's name. Cement and metal introduce austere surfaces beneath gold-toned details, allowing the circular stone installations to command the dining room. Oluce contributed a dedicated lighting project using Pan lamps, directing illumination across the architectural volumes and translucent decorative pieces after dark. The result is a Risorgimento restaurant whose onyx, height, bespoke lighting and architectural restraint give high-end Chinese cooking an unusually theatrical physical stage.

Gong Oriental Attitude is best known for Giulia Liu's creation of a distinctly international form of Chinese fine dining, launched with her husband Lorenzo in March 2015 after a childhood spanning Wenzhou, Emilia-Romagna and Milan. Liu entered the project through a family already reshaping Milanese Asian dining: her brother Claudio established Iyo, the first Asian restaurant in Italy to receive a MICHELIN star, and her brother Marco led Ba, making Gong the third major Milan restaurant associated with the siblings. Opening chef Keisuke Koga brought Japanese technique to Chinese foundations, joined by Japanese maître-sommelier Mototsugu Hayashi; Koga spent the first two years translating Liu family preparations through fine-dining methods and international ingredients. A decisive second phase began in 2017 when Roman chef Guglielmo Paolucci entered the kitchen after formative positions at Mirabelle in Rome, two years beside Antonio Guida at Il Pellicano, a year with MICHELINo Gioia at La Posta Vecchia and another as sous chef to Damiano Nigro at Villa d'Amelia. Paolucci eventually became executive chef, directing an international brigade of twelve drawn from China, Malaysia and Europe and pushing the Chinese foundation through Italian ingredients, Japanese discipline and techniques acquired in MICHELIN-starred European kitchens. Gambero Rosso elevated Gong to Tre Mappamondi in its 2022 guide, an accolade retained through the 2025 and 2026 editions alongside the Liu family's Ba and Iyo, and its current evaluation also carries the guide's Premio Foglia.

Peking duck provides the kitchen's most elaborate examination of Chinese tradition, beginning with five-spice marination and successive lacquering before crisp skin and meat enter a multi-stage service. Thin pancakes receive slices of duck with fermented plum-soy sauce, carrot, cucumber and leek, followed by meat sautéed with vegetable brunoise and served in lettuce, crystal-skin ravioli filled with spicy duck ragù, and broth extracted from the carcass with fine noodles, enoki and broccoli. A further preparation dry-ages and lightly smokes the breast before pairing it with orange, kumquat and Sichuan pepper, turning one bird into a sequence of contrasting textures and techniques. The Golden Ravioli compresses Milan into dim sum through ossobuco ragù enclosed in pasta and placed over saffron-risotto cream, connecting a Chinese format directly with two pillars of Lombard cooking. Wagyu ravioli moves toward greater richness through beef ragù, foie gras and tofu cream, truffle completing the composition, and hamachi introduces smoke from cherry wood beside fermented soy and rice vinegar. Hand-pulled lamian, Wagyu, eel, pigeon and premium seafood broaden the repertoire beyond dim sum, giving Paolucci's kitchen a wide technical field in which Chinese foundations absorb Japanese, Italian and French culinary experience.

Gong Oriental Attitude works as the dining endpoint for an afternoon through Risorgimento and Monforte that follows Milanese residential architecture from floral Liberty craftsmanship through rebellious early-twentieth-century eclecticism into Piero Portaluppi's technologically advanced interwar domestic design.

Begin at Casa Campanini, designed by Alfredo Campanini as his own residence in 1904 and completed during the middle of the decade as one of his principal experiments in Milanese Liberty. Michele Vedani sculpted the female figures flanking the entrance in cement, and Alessandro Mazzucotelli executed Campanini's floral wrought-iron gate, connecting the architect's domestic commission with two specialized decorative practices that gave Milanese Liberty much of its physical character. Continue to Palazzo Berri Meregalli, constructed between 1911 and 1913 from Giulio Ulisse Arata's design as an audacious combination of Romanesque masonry, Gothic and Renaissance references and Liberty decoration. Alessandro Mazzucotelli contributed wrought iron, Angiolo D'Andrea and Adamo Rimoldi worked on painted decoration and mosaics, and Adolfo Wildt contributed sculpture, turning Arata's residence into a concentrated collaboration among architecture and Milanese decorative arts. Conclude at Villa Necchi Campiglio, commissioned by industrialists Angelo Campiglio, Gigina Necchi and Nedda Necchi from Piero Portaluppi and completed in 1935 on land opened for development after the subdivision of the former Serbelloni garden. Portaluppi integrated electricity, an elevator, dumbwaiter, intercoms and a heated private swimming pool into the residence; Tomaso Buzzi subsequently revised several interiors, and the Necchi sisters eventually donated the property to FAI, which opened it publicly after restoration. The progression moves from Campanini's synthesis of architecture, sculpture and Mazzucotelli ironwork through Arata's multi-artist experiment at Palazzo Berri Meregalli into Portaluppi's union of interwar domestic architecture and advanced technology, tracing three increasingly expansive approaches to Milanese residential design around Gong Oriental Attitude.

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