Parco Trotter, Milan

Parco Trotter is a restorative historic park where Turro's multicultural residential character meets the preserved oval of an early twentieth-century racecourse and a pioneering open-air school conceived around children, landscape and learning.

Set along Via Giuseppe Giacosa near Via Padova and just steps from Via Angelo Mosso, the walled park occupies a vast green enclosure where the former trotting oval, century-old trees, low educational pavilions and broad internal paths create an unexpected break within the tightly built apartment districts between Viale Monza and the eastern neighborhoods. The old racing circuit survives as the principal circular avenue, wrapping around lawns, school buildings and structures distributed across the former sporting ground. Viale dei Platani cuts east to west through that oval as cedars, horse chestnuts, Siberian elms and red oaks create long shaded corridors between the scattered pavilions. High perimeter walls separate much of the interior from the surrounding streets, strengthening the contrast between the dense residential blocks outside and the expansive landscape within. The result is an unusually self-contained Milanese park where the geometry of a vanished racecourse remains embedded within one of the city's most ambitious experiments in outdoor education.

Parco Trotter is best known for preserving the ground where Milan's principal trotting racecourse was transformed into the Casa del Sole, an open-air school that placed architecture, nature and practical activity at the center of education. Plans for the new racecourse emerged when construction of Milano Centrale required the SocietΓ  del Trotter to leave its earlier ground near Piazza Doria. A wooded tract belonging to the Comune di Turro between the Via Militare dello Spluga, now Viale Monza, and the Via Postale Veneta, now Via Padova, offered 128,000 square meters for its replacement. The land was purchased on December 19, 1903 for 189,598 lire, and engineer Enrico Prevosti spent two years developing a one-kilometer track accompanied by three grandstands, a covered riding arena, stables, a bar and additional buildings. The new Trotter opened on April 1, 1906, creating a major sporting complex beyond the built edge of Milan. Turro's annexation to Milan in 1919 transferred the property to the city for 1,028,000 lire, just as another use was beginning to emerge inside the racing ground. A summer colony for physically frail children had started there in 1918, using open air and greenery as part of a program intended to strengthen children vulnerable to illness. Its development coincided with educational thinking associated with John Dewey and Ovide Decroly, whose emphasis on activity, observation and practical learning offered an intellectual basis for a permanent outdoor school. Horse racing departed for San Siro in 1924, freeing the entire site for an educational institution whose design retained the racecourse oval. The former sporting ground consequently became the physical foundation for a school in which landscape itself assumed an educational role.

Casa del Sole developed that principle through a dispersed collection of specialized structures conceived around work, movement, cultivation and direct contact with the outdoors. Municipal engineer Giuseppe Folli organized low pavilions throughout the greenery, placing classrooms in close relationship with gardens and the former racing circuit. Two covered gymnasiums, a theater, cinema, farm, orchards, cultivated plots and solari expanded learning beyond conventional classrooms, and a boarding facility housed 160 children whose domestic circumstances were judged inadequate for their health. Luigi Lorenzo Secchi designed the outdoor swimming pool in 1928, creating a facility devoted partly to heliotherapeutic activity before applying experience from the commission to Piscina Romano. The park also contained aviaries, beehives, freshwater fish breeding facilities, a large compass rose and Minitalia, a geographic teaching installation constructed as a physical model of the country. A water plant formed another component of the complex and belonged to Milan's wider pumping network until its decommissioning in 1969. The special school shifted into a neighborhood school during the 1970s, carrying its educational use beyond the original health mission. Milan commissioned the Politecnico di Milano in 1991 to study the natural and architectural recovery of the grounds, with that campaign concluding in 2002. The surviving oval, pavilions, former pool, farm structures and extensive tree cover preserve a rare educational landscape in which a former racecourse became the organizing ground for a school built around learning through physical activity and direct engagement with nature.

Parco Trotter works as the anchor for a daytime exploration through Turro and the adjoining northeastern districts using three nearby sites that move from a nineteenth-century aristocratic garden redirected toward social care through a postwar church by Achille and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni into a fifteenth-century religious complex tied to Milanese monastic culture.

Begin at Parco Villa Finzi, created in 1829 for the Hungarian Hussar officer Count BatthyΓ‘ny as the landscaped setting of a country residence in Gorla. Its garden unfolded around a lake, cafΓ©, greenhouses and two Neoclassical structures, including the subterranean Tempio della Notte, developed within a grotto beneath an artificial hill, and the circular Tempietto dell'Innocenza. Fanny Finzi Ottolenghi redirected the property during the nineteenth century toward charitable work, establishing a Casa-Giardino for children from Gorla and a refuge for children with disabilities. The Comune acquired the property in 1934 and converted the grounds into a public park, preserving an unusual passage from aristocratic retreat to social institution within the northeastern edge of Milan. Continue to Chiesa di San Gabriele Arcangelo in Mater Dei, designed by Achille and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni after establishment of the parish in 1956. The brothers divided the complex into orthogonal bodies for the church and parish functions, using reinforced concrete, brick infill and exposed structural elements to develop a religious building rooted in postwar Milanese experimentation. Fourteen branching supports carry the principal volume, and the irregular church body extends deep into the site behind the street-facing parish wing, revealing the Castiglioni brothers' ability to turn structural requirements into the governing architectural form. Conclude at Santa Maria Bianca della Misericordia, whose history developed after Pietro Tanzi restored an existing chapel in 1404 and brought Lateran canons from Santa Maria della Frigionaia in Lucca to establish a community. Tanzi transferred his property to the foundation through his 1405 testament, and construction of the later church advanced during the 1470s through work associated with the Solari family. The campanile was complete by 1490, Visconti and Sforza patronage supported the monastery and its humanistic library, and elevation to an abbey followed in 1566 before Carlo Borromeo developed a close devotional connection with the Madonna Bianca preserved there. The progression moves from BatthyΓ‘ny and Finzi Ottolenghi's conversion of a private landscape toward social purpose through the Castiglioni brothers' postwar religious architecture into Tanzi and the Lateran canons' fifteenth-century foundation, connecting three sites where institutions repeatedly reshaped the northeastern territory around Parco Trotter.

MAKE IT REAL

Foresyte Travel reveals places that feel extraordinary long before you arrive.
Experience premium editorial crafted for luxury travelers.

SEARCH

GET THE APP

Right Menu Icon