Mrs. Wilkes' Dining Room, Savannah

Mrs. Wilkes' Dining Room is a celebrated Southern restaurant where Savannah Historic District's nineteenth-century residential heritage meets Sema Wilkes' enduring tradition of communal dining, generations of family stewardship and one of America's most beloved expressions of Southern home cooking.

Situated on West Jones Street near Whitaker Street and a short walk from Madison Square, the restaurant occupies a scenic residential corridor distinguished by historic townhouses, brick sidewalks and mature trees. Its modest entrance leads into the ground-floor dining rooms of a nineteenth-century boardinghouse, preserving the intimate proportions of a Savannah residence. Large communal tables accommodate ten diners, with simple furnishings and closely arranged seating creating the atmosphere of a family gathering. Platters and serving bowls cover the tabletops as strangers settle into shared meals, passing food across the table and gradually joining the conversation. The result is a remarkably personal dining tradition whose historic surroundings and communal hospitality have remained central to its appeal for generations.

Mrs. Wilkes' Dining Room is best known for Sema Wilkes' transformation of a modest Savannah boardinghouse into a nationally recognized institution that preserved the communal eating traditions of the American South. Born in rural Georgia in 1907, Wilkes grew up among farming families who raised tobacco, cured hams and prepared food through seasonal preservation. Orphaned with three younger siblings, she learned to cook out of necessity before marrying at sixteen and becoming a mother at twenty-one. Her family relocated to Savannah during World War II, where she began working at Mrs. Dixon's Boardinghouse and discovered a livelihood in preparing meals for its residents. In 1943, she assumed control of the establishment, building a business around comfortable lodging and the substantial home-cooked meals traditionally served in Southern boardinghouses. Her clientele initially included railroad workers, shipyard employees, schoolteachers and local merchants, bringing different occupations and social backgrounds together at the same tables. Relationships with nearby farmers supplied seasonal vegetables, including freshly dug sweet potatoes and whippoorwill peas, preserving the agricultural connections familiar from her childhood. Word of the cooking spread through Savannah, and local residents increasingly joined the boarders for lunch. National attention followed through coverage in Esquire, The New York Times and David Brinkley's television news program, attracting travelers who sought out the unassuming establishment on Jones Street. Wilkes did not install an exterior restaurant sign until 1987, reflecting the strength of a reputation established through personal recommendations and returning customers. The James Beard Foundation recognized the restaurant with an America's Classics award in 1999, placing its home cooking among the country's most significant regional culinary traditions. A Southern Living readers' award followed in 2000, further affirming the restaurant's national standing. Wilkes also preserved her recipes through cookbooks, culminating in the 2001 publication of Mrs. Wilkes' Boardinghouse Cookbook, a collection of more than three hundred recipes accompanied by culinary historian John T. Edge's account of her contribution to Southern food. Her death in 2002 at ninety-five ended nearly six decades of personal stewardship, but the business continued under successive generations of the Wilkes family. Granddaughter Marcia Thompson and great-grandson Ryon Thompson carried forward the restaurant's traditions, preserving the family ownership and communal dining format that made Sema Wilkes a consequential figure in American regional cooking.

Sema Wilkes' culinary approach begins with the Southern boardinghouse tradition of preparing an abundant midday meal from familiar ingredients, using patient cooking and careful seasoning to develop the character of vegetables, grains and meats. Fried chicken provides the meal's defining centerpiece, with a light coating of flour forming a crisp exterior around tender meat. Its restrained preparation places the emphasis on the chicken itself, establishing a savory foundation for the accompanying dishes. Vegetables carry equal importance, reflecting the agricultural origins of Southern home cooking and the seasonal availability that historically governed boardinghouse kitchens. Butter beans develop a creamy interior through gentle simmering, and collard greens acquire their depth from prolonged cooking with smoked pork. Cornbread dressing extends those flavors through broth and pan drippings, creating a moist, savory preparation whose richness comes from the ingredients already circulating through the kitchen. Sweet potatoes introduce a contrasting register through their natural sugars, which deepen during cooking and complement the salt and smoke of the savory dishes. Biscuits and corn muffins provide a means of gathering gravy and cooking juices, connecting the separate preparations across the plate. The meal's defining characteristic emerges through the relationship between these foods, as individual bowls contribute contrasting textures and flavors to a shared Southern table. Service reinforces that connection through platters passed among ten diners, creating a rhythm of conversation and hospitality as food moves around the room. Daily changes in the vegetable selection preserve the seasonal flexibility of the original boardinghouse kitchen, giving returning customers different combinations within a familiar structure. Banana pudding and other traditional sweets complete the meal through the comforting textures and recognizable flavors of Southern domestic baking. Mrs. Wilkes' Dining Room preserves this culinary tradition through the relationship between carefully seasoned home cooking, abundant shared dishes and the social ritual of eating together.

Mrs. Wilkes' Dining Room works as the anchor for an outing connecting Savannah's antebellum residential architecture, the Civil War's decisive political history and the religious communities that helped establish the city's remarkable cultural diversity.

Begin at Green-Meldrim House, the Gothic Revival mansion constructed for wealthy cotton merchant Charles Green during the early 1850s. Architect John Norris designed its elaborate ironwork, crenellated roofline and richly decorated interiors, creating one of the American South's most accomplished examples of the style. General William Tecumseh Sherman established his headquarters there after Union forces captured Savannah in December 1864, using the residence during the final stages of his campaign through Georgia. The house subsequently hosted the January 1865 meeting between Sherman, Secretary of War Edwin Stanton and twenty Black religious leaders whose discussion influenced Special Field Orders No. 15. Its preservation as a National Historic Landmark connects Savannah's architectural wealth with the profound political consequences of emancipation. Continue to Mercer Williams House Museum, the Italianate residence begun in 1860 for Confederate general Hugh W. Mercer and completed after the Civil War. Norris designed the original house, whose substantial brick construction and ornate interior decoration established it as a prominent residence overlooking Monterey Square. Antiques dealer and preservationist Jim Williams acquired the property in 1969 and undertook an extensive restoration, furnishing its rooms with an important collection of European and American decorative arts. The mansion subsequently became internationally famous through John Berendt's 1994 book Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, which examined the 1981 death of Danny Hansford inside the residence. Its transformation into a museum preserves both Savannah's nineteenth-century domestic architecture and the modern literary history that brought renewed attention to the city. Conclude at Congregation Mickve Israel, the historic Jewish congregation established in 1733 by settlers who arrived from England aboard the William and Sarah. The original group of forty-two immigrants brought religious traditions that became part of Savannah's early colonial history, establishing one of the oldest Jewish congregations in the United States. Architect Henry G. Harrison designed the congregation's present Gothic Revival sanctuary, completed in 1878 with pointed arches and elaborate architectural detailing. Its museum preserves religious artifacts, historic correspondence and Torah scrolls associated with the congregation's long history. The sanctuary remains a significant center of Jewish religious and cultural life, connecting Savannah's colonial beginnings with the continuing traditions of its Jewish community. The progression moves from the architectural and political consequences of the Civil War through Savannah's preservation and literary history, concluding with a religious institution whose origins reach the city's earliest colonial settlement.

MAKE IT REAL

Foresyte Travel reveals places that feel extraordinary long before you arrive.
Enjoy editorial crafted for luxury travelers.
Foresyte may earn a commission when you book.

SEARCH

GET THE APP

Right Menu Icon